The landscape was decidedly different than what I
remembered from 1962, when I was a student at the Monterey Institute of Foreign Studies.
Back then, litter-strewn railroad tracks wound along the bay to a very seedy Cannery Row,
immortalized in the John Steinbeck novel of the same name. Since then, most of the
canneries have closed and the buildings transformed into trendy shops and
restaurants.
Now, wherever I travel, I try to find a rail-trail
to ride. It's not difficult. There are more than 1,200 of them in the United States,
totaling nearly 12,000 miles (about 19,000 kilometres). What are they? Sometimes called
"linear parks," they are public pathways, reclaimed from abandoned rail lines.
Since the 1920s, "the golden age of railroading" in North America, some 200,000
miles (about 320,000 kilometres) of railway have been abandoned as unprofitable. The
recycled-rails movement got rolling in the 1970s and is now active in all 50 states and
portions of Canada.
There's the Burke-Gilman Trail, which winds some 30
miles (about 48 kilometres) from the heart of Seattle, Washington, U.S.A., through
pleasant residential neighborhoods where homeowners plant flower gardens along the
embankment. And in the southwest corner of Virgina, U.S.A., is the Virginia Creeper
Rail-Trail, where a former narrow gauge logging railroad has been resurrected as an
exhilarating, 17-mile (about 27-kilometre) gravel trail that snakes along a river gorge
and crosses 100 bridges and trestles before it reaches the town of Damascus.
The Capital Crescent Trail near Washington, D.C.,
U.S.A., winds some 30 miles (about 48 kilometres) from its start near the Potomac River in
the trendy Georgetown neighborhood to suburban Silver Springs, Maryland. Another great
ride is the Cape Cod Rail-Trail, which travels through historic New England settlements,
eventually linking with another bike trail that winds through the Cape Cod National
Seashore and leads to the artsy resort town of Provincetown, Massachusetts, U.S.A.
Each rail-trail is different, but they all started
with one thing: the vision and dedication of a local organization whose members worked
long and hard, sometimes against formidable odds. Five of those reclaimed miles lie in
Pemberton, a town in central New Jersey, U.S.A. There, members of the Rotary Club of
Pemberton, led by Jerry Jerome, dedicated themselves to building a trail. On hand for its
ribbon-cutting ceremony in July 1999. was New Jersey Governor Christine Todd Whitman, who
has pledged state funds to build a total of 2,000 miles (about 3,220 kilometres) of
pathways in the Garden State. Though governments typically build the long, narrow parks,
impetus for rail-projects often begins with grassroots groups. Len Frank, a retired civil
engineer from Hackettstown, New Jersey, formed one such organization the
Paulinskill Valley Trail Committee. Members battled opposition and apathy for nearly 20
years to promote an abandoned 26-mile (about 42-kilometre) section of the New York,
Susquehanna and Western Railroad as a rail-trail. Finally, in 1993, the State Department
of Environmental Preservation bought and designated the land as a linear state park.
In New York state, publisher Elinor Mettler used her
newspaper to report on the proposed Harlem Valley rail-trail and printed editorials
emphasizing the recreational and economic benefits a trail could bring to towns along an
old commuter rail line.
One of the most ardent supporters of the Root River
Trail in the southeast corner of Minnesota, U.S.A., was once its most vocal opponent.
Kristine Poelzer of Lanesboro spoke long and loud against the proposed 60-mile (about
97-kilometre) trail that would run past her back yard. "I envisioned all sorts of
horrible things that would happen to take away from the pleasant back yard I had come to
love," she explains. But the Lanesboro City Council didn't listen to Poelzer's
protests and she now believes that's a good thing. "Without this trail, people
wouldn't be able to link up as easily or safely with other communities," she says.
"Because of the friendly traffic, [we have] old-fashioned neighborhood security that
money can't buy." The woman who once feared that a rail-trail would invade her
privacy is now a member of Minnesota's Bicycle Advisory Committee.
Craig Della Penna, northeast field representative
for the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy (RTC), a nationwide advocacy organization based in
Washington, D.C., helps groups in nine states with the long and sometimes difficult
process of making a new pathway out of an old rail bed. Della Penna should know: He is in
charge of freight services for a Massachusetts short line railroad.
Della Penna and other rail-trail advocates tell
anyone who will listen the same story: Rail-trails provide safe and scenic pathways that
promote outdoor recreation. They can help reconnect neighborhoods and communities.
Rail-trails boost tourism and local economies through money spent by trail users. Even
homeowners whose property lies next to or near rail-trails can benefit from higher resale
prices.
The Northern Central Rail-Trail begins in Ashland,
Maryland, U.S.A., a few miles north of Baltimore. It follows the Gunpowder Falls River
north to the Pennsylvania state line, where it links with the York County Heritage Trail
into historic York, Pennsylvania.
Since the trail was completed in 1993, the region's
population has grown by more than 30 percent a jump some attribute to the trail's
presence. A 1994 study of the Northern Central showed that the 41-mile (66-kilometre)
trail cost nearly $200,000 to build and supported about 250 jobs. It generated more than
$300,000 in tax revenues, and $3.3 million worth of goods and services that year.
In several counties in eastern Iowa, visitors to
three trails generated more than $1.2 million in direct and indirect spending in one year.
About 60 miles (about 97-kilometres) northwest of Toronto, Ontario, Canada, where the
20-mile (about 32-kilometre) Georgian Trail stretches from Meaford to Collingwood,
trail-related revenues during July and August 1998 reached C $2 million. The Georgian
Trail study also showed that property values along the bayside trail rose from five to 32
percent, depending on how close houses were to the bikeway.
In Seattle, where realtors routinely list houses as
"next to Burke-Gilman trail," or "5-minutes walk from rail-trail,"
owners can expect increases of from two to six percent in property values. The IntraCorp's
RiverTrail Community in nearby Redmond, Washington, home of the Microsoft Corporation, is
advertised as "nestled along the Sammamish River Trail."
"Homes along the trail are in the most
desirable location," explains Christy McClure, sales administrator for Intracorp, a
property developer in Washington's Puget Sound region. According to American Lives, an
Oakland, California-based market research firm, bikeways score higher in terms of
community appeal than such community amenities as golf courses, tennis courts and
amphitheaters.
One reason for community interest, as Kristine
Poelzer discovered in Lanesboro, is that rail-trails are safe. Police in Seattle, Denver
and other larger cities confirm her report, explaining that even urban trails are
overwhelmingly secure because of active police and volunteer patrols and because
people take "pride of ownership" in their trails.
Most of Lanesboro's residents, in fact, display just
the kind of pride that helps to make a rail-trail a successful addition to any community.
The town lies in the southeast corner of Minnesota, about 35 miles (about 56 kilometres)
from Rochester along scenic Route 16 and nestled within limestone bluffs cut by the Root
River. When the Southern Minnesota Railway folded in the 1950s, many towns along the line
all but dried up. But today, tiny Lanesboro, population 1,500, is a premier tourist
destination touted as one of America's top 100 arts communities. The quaint town offers
antiques shops, good restaurants and at least nine bed and breakfast inns.
The State Department of Natural Resources (DNR)
operates the 60-mile (about 97-kilometre) trail and charges no usage fees, except for a
standard statewide cross-country ski permit for those who choose to glide along the trail
during the winter. Nonetheless, according to a DNR fact sheet, "The Root River Trail
generates millions of dollars each year, the result of the tourism industry which has
grown up alongside it."
The LR General Store, located on the trail, does a
brisk business in canoe, kayak and tubing rentals, and bike rentals and repairs. "We
derive about 60 percent of our business, from May to October, from people who visit
Lanesboro and enjoy the trail and the Root River," says Kirsten Mensing who, along
with her husband, operates the store and the nearby Scanlan House bed and breakfast.
Damascus, Virginia, a village of 1,000 residents
near the borders of North Carolina and Tennessee, bills itself as "Trail Town,
U.S.A." Five long-distance trails intersect nearby. The Appalachian Trail literally
follows the main street, as does the Virginia Creeper Rail-Trail.
"We get over 100,000 trail users a year,"
says Tom McMullen, president of the Virginia Creeper Trail Club. During the peak visitor
season, the pathway is often packed with riders shuttled by van to the trailhead at
Whitetop Station "so they can ride down as fast as they can," McMullen explains.
Damascus supports at least three full-service trail
outfitters that also operate van shuttle services. An adult ride to Whitetop Station costs
about $9, or $5 for those who rent a bike at $15 to $25 per day. "We will see
anywhere from 200 to 500 people a week over the course of the summer and fall," says
Phoebe Cartwright, owner of Blue Blaze Bike & Shuttle Service in Damascus. Cartwright
says the population of the town mushrooms during the area's two annual festivals: the
three-day Trail Days festival in May and the new "Fat Tire Festival" for
mountain cyclists, held in October. The 1999 festival drew more than 15,000 people to the
area. Some restaurants ran out of food, and lodging at the 75 area inns and motels was at
a premium.
According to McMullen, the 280-member Virginia
Creeper Trail Club has become the nexus for economic planning and research. "We
installed people-counting devices at two places on the trail, and are studying its
economic impact on the area," he says. Club volunteers also do cleanup and
maintenance.
The Baltimore & Annapolis (B&A) Trail Park
in Maryland is a 13-mile (21-kilometre) bikeway that runs from Glen Burnie south of
Baltimore almost to historic Annapolis. Several businesses have opened up second stores
along or near the trail, and the park offers seasonal leases to pushcart-style food and
beverage concessionaires.
According to Trail Superintendent David Dionne, the
leases cost from $1,000 to $1,500 per year, paid to Friends of the B&A Trail, a
volunteer organization that provides patrols and maintenance. Some pushcart vendors report
earning up to $30,000 from May to September. The B&A also promotes "junior
entrepreneurs" of the lemonade-stand variety. "Vendors are told not to hassle
the youngsters, no matter where they set up their stands," Dionne says. On one
sweltering Saturday, one youth sold more than 350 cups of lemonade at 25 cents each. He
spent his profit on inline skates, which he now uses to skate on the trail. The B&A
trail is popular with fund-raising groups as well. In 1999, the annual CROP Walk event to
help area food banks raised $10,000 in one day.
With all of the economic, visual and environmental
benefits, one might think that everybody would welcome a rail-trail to their community.
But that's not necessarily the case.
In Massachusetts, five communities along the
proposed Wayside Rail-Trail were set to accept state funds to rehabilitate an old line.
But in Weston, a town about 12 miles (about 19 kilometres) west of downtown Boston, a
small but powerful group of wealthy homeowners remained opposed. At a town meeting
attended by more than 1,100, opponents outvoted supporters two to one, and the trail
remains unbuilt a trash-filled derelict in the eyes of trail advocates.
However, in Williamsburg, Massachusetts, about 15
minutes north of the college town of Northampton, merchants and citizens overcame
municipal apathy to raise enough money to do a title search and buy the rail corridor.
"The vast majority of the people of Williamsburg have the vision, and know full well
that the benefits of the coming rail-trail will make their town a more attractive place to
live and make for a stronger community," said the RTC's Craig Della Penna as he
handed the $12,400 check to the mayor.
Along several trails, old train stations have been
renovated and converted into museums. In Pemberton, New Jersey, Mike Tamn is the curator
of the North Pemberton Station Museum. Twenty years after the line was abandoned, the
station, built in 1892, was in danger of collapsing. Civic and preservation groups began
the "Save Our Station" campaign in 1998, and managed to get a $460,000 grant
from the state department of transportation. The group hired a restoration specialist who
supervised rehabilitation, and the old station-museum came to life again in April 1999.
"Now, we get school groups in here all the
time; it's part of their local history unit," says Tamn, himself a former
Pennsylvania Railroad employee. "We are planning a nature walk along the trail, and
other interpretive activities."
David Burwell, president of the RTC, believes that
rail-trails reconnect America to its past. "The Cathedral Aisle Trail in Aiken, South
Carolina, follows the first railroad designed for steam trains," he explains.
"California's Bizz Johnson trail commemorates Paul Bunyan and his blue ox,
Babe." Others follow more prosaic work-a-day routes through downtown America.
Regardless of their location, Burwell says, "We need trails to connect and preserve
our natural environment and shared history. As trail advocates, we are saying to future
generations: These corridors tell stories that we as a community cherish. Remember them
and honor them."
Free-lance writer J. Wandres has ridden on and
written about rail-trails in several states. In 1995, he founded the non-profit Monmouth
Heritage Trails, an information and advocacy group that supports rail-trail development in
central New Jersey, U.S.A.